If we thought the author of The Brazil Rough Guide was smoking something when they compared Brasilia to Paris, they had clearly moved onto to something decidedly stronger when they described Salvador as ‘second only to Rio in the magnificence of it’s natural setting’. A more accurate assessment would be an unholy alliance of a war zone and something out of a zombie movie.
The majority of the locals prey on tourists, and the honest remainder instruct you “don’t go down that street”, or “don’t visit this area after twilight”.
The city is one huge favela, save for the 500sqm Historic Centre perched well above the sprawl below; the two areas linked only by a lift, the ‘Elevador Lacerda’. The Historic Centre serves as a welcome sanctuary for tourists to shelter, protected by Brazil’s answer to the SAS, who are stationed on every street corner.
Admittedly there were a couple of nice colonial buildings. However, the most positive thing we can say is that we never have to return.
Love Nick and Lucy